A prototype dress made using the avian inspired ultra black dyed fabric is seen in the lab in the Human Ecology Building on Wednesday, November 5, 2025. (Ryan Young / Cornell University)

Bird-of-Paradise Feathers Inspire Darkest Fabric Ever Made

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Editor’s note: This story was adapted from a feature in the Cornell Chronicle.

By Tom Fleischman

The color “ultrablack”—defined as reflecting less than 0.5% of the light that hits it—has a variety of uses, including in cameras, solar panels, and telescopes, but it’s difficult to produce and can appear less black when viewed at an angle. Now, a Cornell lab led by a doctoral alum has devised a simple method for making the elusive color.

Taking cues from nature—in particular the striking black of the magnificent riflebird—researchers in Human Ecology’s Responsive Apparel Design (RAD) Lab dyed a white merino wool knit fabric with polydopamine, followed by etching of the material in a plasma chamber to create nanofibrils—spiky nanoscale growths.

The Magnificent Riflebird on a tree branch
Paul Maury / Lab of Ornithology
The magnificent riflebird.

These features were made to mimic the light-trapping capabilities found on the riflebird’s ultrablack feathers, which absorb most of the light that hits them.

The researchers’ two-step approach produced the darkest fabric currently reported; it’s also easy to manufacture, scalable, wearable, and not angle-dependent.

The researchers’ two-step approach produced the darkest fabric currently reported; it’s also easy to manufacture, scalable, wearable, and not angle-dependent.

They have applied for patent protection with the Cornell Center for Technology Licensing and hope to form a company around their process, which can be used on natural materials, including wool, silk, and cotton.

“From a design perspective, I think it’s exciting because a lot of the ultrablack that exists isn’t really as wearable as ours,” says Larissa Shepherd, PhD ’17, assistant professor in the Department of Human Centered Design. “And it stays ultrablack even from wider angles.”

Shepherd, the RAD Lab’s director, is senior author of “Ultrablack Wool Textiles Inspired by Hierarchical Avian Structure,” which was published in Nature Communications in November. Shepherd’s co-authors are doctoral students Hansadi Jayamaha and Kyuin Park, MS ’23, both RAD Lab members.

Their work included analysis of feathers from the riflebird, a member of the bird-of-paradise family found in New Guinea and Australia. Shepherd and her team obtained riflebird feathers from the Cornell Lab of Ornithology with the help of Mary Ferraro, bird collections manager, and Vanya Rohwer, curator of birds and mammals.

Professor Larissa Shepherd, an assistant professor in the Department of Human Centered Design, poses with a prototype dress made using their avian inspired ultra black dyed fabric in their lab in the Human Ecology Building on Wednesday, November 5, 2025. (Ryan Young / Cornell University)
Prof. Larissa Shepherd, PhD ’17, in the lab.

The riflebird’s striking black plumage comes from melanin pigment combined with tightly bunched barbules that serve to deflect light inward, absorbing nearly all of it. This renders the bird extraordinarily black, but only when viewed straight on; at an angle, its plumage appears shiny.

This same coloration is evident in other creatures, including fish and butterflies. Shepherd says her group’s choice of polydopamine for their dye was intentional.

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“Polydopamine is a synthetic melanin, and melanin is what these creatures have,” she says. “And the riflebird has these really interesting hierarchical structures, the barbules, along with the melanin. So we wanted to combine those aspects in a textile.”

A container with the ultra black dye is seen in the Radical Apparel Design Lab in the Human Ecology Building on Wednesday, November 5, 2025. (Ryan Young / Cornell University)
The ultrablack dye in the RAD Lab.

It wasn’t enough to simply coat the surface of the wool: the researchers had to have the polydopamine penetrate into the fibers of the fabric, so every bit of it became black.

That’s because the plasma etching process removes some surface material of the outermost fibers, leaving behind spiky nanofibrils, which are a key component.

“The light basically bounces back and forth between the fibrils, instead of reflecting back out,” Jayamaha says. “That’s what creates the ultrablack effect.”

The light basically bounces back and forth between the fibrils, instead of reflecting back out—that’s what creates the ultrablack effect.

Fiber science PhD candidate Hansadi Jayamaha

Analysis revealed that the group’s fabric had an average total reflectance of 0.13%, making it the darkest fabric yet reported. And it remained ultrablack across a 120-degree angular span, meaning it appears the same at up to a 60-degree angle from either side or straight on, superior to currently available commercial materials.

According to Park, their ultrablack fabric has potential in many solar thermal applications, converting and utilizing absorbed light into thermal energy. “We could actually use the ultrablack fabric for thermo-regulating camouflage,” he says.

Ph.D. candidate in fiber science Hansadi Jayamaha, demonstrates the process for making their avian inspired ultra black dyed fabric in their lab in the Human Ecology Building on Wednesday, November 5, 2025. (Ryan Young / Cornell University)
Lab member Hansadi Jayamaha with a sample of dyed fabric.

In fall 2024, fashion design management major Zoe Alvarez ’25 created a black strapless dress inspired by the riflebird that incorporated as its centerpiece ultrablack material with a splash of iridescent blue.

Images of the dress were used to confirm ultrablack’s true “blackness”: when the image’s contrast, hue, vibrance, or brightness were adjusted, all the other colors changed, but ultrablack remained the same.

Top: A prototype dress, incorporating the ultrablack fabric, designed by Zoe Alvarez ’25. (All photos by Ryan Young / Cornell University, unless otherwise indicated.)

Published December 2, 2025


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