A bin of apples

Apples of Our Eye: A Love Letter to Cornell’s Fabulous Fruit

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For harvest season, we showcase a baker’s dozen of Big Red-developed varieties—plus a recipe from the Cornell Club in NYC!

By Melissa Newcomb

You may not realize it, but that apple you snack on or bake into a pie may have come from your alma mater. Since 1890, the apple breeders in CALS and Cornell AgriTech (formerly known as the New York State Agricultural Experiment Station) have released 69 varieties of America’s favorite fruit.

In keeping with Cornell’s role as New York’s land-grant university, the apples are developed with the state’s climate, disease, and pest conditions in mind—but they’re grown and sold around the globe.

An apple orchard at Cornell AgriTech.Allison Usavage
An orchard at Cornell AgriTech.

For decades, the program has by led by Susan Brown, the Herman M. Cohn Professor of Agriculture and Life Sciences, with her research specialist, Kevin Maloney ’85, MS ’01.

(As Maloney noted in a chat with CALS a while back: "I enjoy having the opportunity to eat hundreds of different apples each year.")

With fall harvest season in full swing, we showcase a baker’s dozen of varieties developed at Cornell—home to the nation’s oldest apple breeding program.

And scroll down for one particularly tasty way to use them: a popular apple cobbler recipe from the Cornell Club in NYC!

Snapdragon apples on a tree.
Craig Cramer / Cornell University

Snapdragon

The variety, a favorite among children, takes its name from its crispy texture.

As Brown said upon its release in 2013: “The taste, the crispiness, and the juiciness impressed us.”

In 2022, Snapdragon became the official apple of the Buffalo Bills football team.

"Developed at Cornell University and grown in New York State by 150 family farmers," says the apple's website, "Snapdragon has always been New York, just like the Bills."


Macoun

Named in honor of a Canadian pomologist, this sweet and aromatic fruit is excellent for dessert—either eaten raw or baked into decoratively arranged tarts (since it holds its shape during cooking).

A display of ripe Macoun apples.

And its picking season is short: it's harvested for just a few weeks from late September to early October.


Cortland apples in a basket.

Cortland

This variety is perfect for dishes that call for fresh apples, like a salad or charcuterie board—in part because it’s slow to brown.

Bright red with occasional yellow or green highlights and juicy, white flesh, it’s among the most popular apples in the country and one of the most widely grown in New York thanks to its high yields and cold tolerance.

It’s named after a county that neighbors Ithaca’s own.


Jonagold

Among the largest apples, it’s a cross between Golden Delicious and Jonathan (and its name is a portmanteau of both). It combines the sweetness of the former with the tartness of the latter.

Two Jonagold apples on a branch

While it makes for a flavorful snack by itself, it’s a solid choice for cooking and baking, as its robust flavor enhances dishes like pies and sauces.


An Empire apple

Empire

A cross of McIntosh and Red Delicious, it’s the quintessential apple for snacking, packing in a lunchbox, or setting on a teacher’s desk—boasting a crisp texture, bright white flesh, and a sweet taste with tart undertones.

Named after its home state, it resists bruising and works in everything from juice to sauce, pies to salads.

Cornellians got to taste it first: while it debuted in 1945, it wasn’t widely introduced until 1966.


Ruby Frost

Satisfying fans well into the winter, Ruby Frost ripens later in the fall and stores well.

Released at the same time as Snapdragon, it’s named in honor of its striking, jewel-like appearance, with deep red skin that sometimes approaches purple.

(The “frost” part channels its refreshing quality.)

It’s best enjoyed as a snack or incorporated fresh into salads.

Ruby frost apples on a tree

An Autumncrisp apple

Autumn Crisp

As the name implies, this apple is known for its crunch.

It boasts high levels of vitamin C and has unique-looking skin, with splatters of red, green, and yellow.

It's typically harvested in October, since its flavor profile develops fully in cooler climates.

With a blend of sweet and tart flavors, it’s best for fresh snacking and adding texture to salads, but can also be used in baking.


Firecracker

Released in 2020 (along with Pink Luster and Cordera), it’s one of Cornell’s newest varieties.

Firecrackers are small to medium-sized and have a distinct appearance, with red and yellow stripes and small dots.

With a crisp texture and a tangy, sweet, and even spicy flavor, they’re best enjoyed fresh or in apple-centered desserts or cider, where their unique attributes can shine.

Firecracker apples on a branch

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Pink luster apples on a tree.
Kevin Maloney / Cornell AgriTech

Pink Luster

Brown spent 23 years creating this variety, which combines the tastiest qualities of Honeycrisp and Gala.

The result is a juicy, slightly tart apple with a crisp texture, bright pinkish-red skin, and glossy finish.

Maturing in mid-September, Pink Luster is ideal for U-pick operations, given their eye-catching appearance.


Jonamac

This variety, a cross between Jonathan and McIntosh, is known for its honeylike taste with undertones of cinnamon and nutmeg. Primarily an eating apple, it pairs well on a charcuterie board with cheeses like cheddar, gouda, or parmesan. (But be sure to sprinkle them with lemon juice to keep them from browning, as Jonamac tends to oxidize within 10 minutes of slicing.)

A Jonamac apple

Given that it falls apart quickly when cooked, it’s not typically used for baking.


A Cordera apple
Kevin Maloney / Cornell AgriTech

Cordera

Named with the Spanish word for “lamb,” this variety honors Brown’s predecessor—pomologist Robert Lamb, who passed away in 1997—and his family. (Lamb and his wife, Barbara, met at AgriTech; daughter Betsy Lamb, MS ’81, is a Cornell staff member.)

Their eponymous apple has a crunchy texture and sweet-tart flavor, and is resistant to apple scab, a fungal disease.


Liberty

Growing on trees that produce a large amount of fruit each season, Liberty has a firm, crunchy texture and white flesh that dramatically contrasts with its deep red skin.

It’s prized for its resistance to several common diseases; its name reflects its hardy nature. With a balanced flavor, it holds its shape well when cooked—making it ideal for pies and other desserts.

Liberty apples on a tree.

A Fortune apple

Fortune

Highly successful in testing trials, Fortune debuted in 1995—after eager growers urged that it be released swiftly.

A cross of Empire and Schoharie Spy, it boasts numerous attributes: large fruit that can be eaten fresh or used in baking; a crisp texture and slightly spicy flavor; and good storage capability.

Buttery and indulgent, this fruit dessert has been a favorite on the club’s menu since 2010. While the club uses Granny Smiths, you’re welcome to substitute your favorite Cornell-bred baking apple! (See note below.)

Ingredients

Topping

½ lb. (2 sticks) butter

¾ c. sugar

½ tbs. cinnamon

1 tsp. nutmeg

1 ⅓ c. all-purpose flour

2 c. store-bought granola

Filling

6 Granny Smith apples

Juice of ½ lemon

⅓ c. sugar

1 tbs. tapioca

A serving of apple cobbler with ice cream in a red dish
Beth Saulnier / Cornell University

Directions

Preheat oven to 325 °F.

Make the topping: In a mixing bowl, cream together butter and sugar. Add cinnamon and nutmeg and mix until incorporated. Add granola (roughly chopped) and mix until incorporated. Add flour, mix gently until incorporated, and set aside.

Make the filling: Peel, core, and quarter apples. Cut each quarter into six pieces (resembling square-shaped chunks) and place in bowl. Add sugar, tapioca, and lemon juice and toss gently.

Assemble the cobbler: Spread apple mixture evenly in 9”x13” baking pan. Spread topping, covering all fruit. Bake for 40–45 minutes or until apples are fully cooked. Allow to cool; serve in individual bowls, warm and topped with ice cream.

Note: Brown’s favorite baking apple is Ruby Frost. Also, she advocates using two varieties in cooked dishes; that way, the result has balanced flavor and a contrast between apples that break down and others that hold their shape. "I recommend that bakers support their local apple growers—whatever local means to them," she adds, noting that grocery shoppers can find the state of origin on the sticker attached to each fruit.


Top: A bin of apples at Cornell AgriTech (photo by Allison Usavage; all other images provided, unless otherwise indicated).

Published September 19, 2024


Comments

  1. Karen Fried, Class of 1990

    Braeburn has always been my favorite. I live in Chicago now. Are Braeburn still produced?

    • Rich Cowles, Class of 1982

      Braeburn are commonly available at supermarkets. It is a variety discovered in New Zealand, and many are grown there. That’s about as far away from Cornell as you can go!

    • Lucrezia Herman, Class of 1976

      I don’t remember seeing them in NYS (I left in ‘88), though they’re easy to find here in the UK. My favorites, which I could only ever find during Ithaca’s Apple Festival, were the Macouns – I always tried to buy a half peck of them, but they were often sold out.

  2. Dolores Gebhardt, Class of 1981

    I was the first in my family to go to college, so I was pretty clueless— I had my clothes, toiletries and linens and that’s about it. When I arrived and saw what everyone else had brought, my parents and I raced to a local store- I think it was Ames- and bought all the little things: a desk lamp, hot pot, etc. and sneakers… my shin splints from all the walking were killing me!

    • Paul McHugh

      Thanks for your post. Helps me remember my family’s blessings of college expectations, and material abundance, showing up to the dorm with a car full of personal effect for my freshman daughter. Thanks

  3. Patti

    Dr. Brown is amazing and a great person to showcase the fruit: sweet, tart and is always ready to answer questions!

  4. Frank Strickland, Class of 1990

    Great article, thank you!

    I just do not understand why Cornell closed the orchards to the public. It’s so sad. I really used to look forward to shopping for the latest experimental apple varieties and buying a gallon of cider every weekend in autumn. 🙁

  5. Cindy Fuller, Class of 1978

    Jonagold is about the only Cornell-developed apple available here on the Left Coast. A lot of the newer varieties introduced by Washington State University have plenty of crunch, but are too sweet and un-apple-tasting for me. (Disclosure: I’ve had relatives and friends in the apple orchard business in upstate NY.)

    • Kathleen Allen, Class of 1975

      I wonder if I could order some of these from a New York orchard so I could eat them in California?

      • Eli Newell, Class of 2024

        “Yes! Apples”/New York Apple Sales (https://yesapples.com/), which is led by a couple of Cornell alumni, ships NY apples including Snapdragon. I’ve ordered with them for gifts to family and friends out of state

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