{"id":68101,"date":"2026-03-03T14:29:02","date_gmt":"2026-03-03T19:29:02","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/alumni.cornell.edu\/cornellians\/?p=68101"},"modified":"2026-03-03T14:29:03","modified_gmt":"2026-03-03T19:29:03","slug":"khan-cheeni","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/alumni.cornell.edu\/cornellians\/khan-cheeni\/","title":{"rendered":"Alum\u2019s Indian Eatery Serves Up Culture, Comfort, and Crunchwraps"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

Mouleena Khan \u201912 launched Brooklyn\u2019s Bengali-style Cheeni\u2014and gained fame when the New York Times<\/em> documented the process<\/p>\n\n\n\n

By Joe Wilensky<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

While thousands of hopeful restaurateurs open eateries in NYC every year, few have ever had those efforts scrupulously documented by a major media outlet.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

But in October 2025, the New York Times<\/em> took a deep dive into a venture by Mouleena Khan \u201912, whose process of envisioning, creating, and launching Brooklyn\u2019s Indian-inspired Cheeni<\/a> it showcased in a multimedia feature<\/a> headlined, \u201cOpening a Restaurant in New York is No Picnic. Here\u2019s What It Takes.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"exterior
Joe Wilensky \/ Cornell University<\/figcaption>
Cheeni opened on Brooklyn’s Tompkins Avenue in summer 2025.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

\u201cWe sought out the underdog, a first-timer risking it all to pursue the dream,\u201d the Times<\/em> explained. \u201cSomeone who had never recruited investors, landed a liquor license, or scaled up a recipe for hundreds of diners.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Cheeni represents a career switch for Khan, an engineering alum who\u2019d long worked in healthcare operations.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n

We sought out the underdog, a first-timer risking it all to pursue the dream.<\/p>\nThe New York Times<\/em><\/strong><\/cite><\/blockquote>\n\n\n\n

The article followed her for nearly a year as she partnered with a chef, gathered investors, found a space in the Bedford-Stuyvesant neighborhood, navigated municipal red tape, and much more.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Opened in July 2025, the caf\u00e9 draws on Khan\u2019s Bengali heritage, Indian home cooking, and favorite street snacks.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n
\"a<\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"Cheeni's<\/figure>\n
Menu highlights include a vegan scramble breakfast dish and a phuchka<\/em> spiced potato entree.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

But the menu also includes Asian influences and some very American touches\u2014like a masala egg-and-cheese breakfast sandwich and a \u201ccrunchwrap\u201d inspired by a popular offering at Taco Bell.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cCheeni is that rare spot you can\u2019t neatly label,\u201d says one Yelp reviewer<\/a>. \u201cPart caf\u00e9, part bar, part restaurant, and somehow perfect for pretty much any time you want to eat or drink.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Mouleena
At Commencement with pal Natalie Goldman \u201912.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Khan majored in operations research and information engineering on the Hill, with a minor in dance.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

After graduation, she worked for the professional services giant Deloitte, earned an MBA from the University of Chicago, and held positions on the business side of healthcare.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

But she was unhappy, and took time off to think about her next steps. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n

Cheeni is that rare spot you can\u2019t neatly label\u2014part caf\u00e9, part bar, part restaurant, and somehow perfect for pretty much any time you want to eat or drink.<\/p>\nA five-star review on Yelp<\/strong><\/cite><\/blockquote>\n\n\n\n

Chatting with a friend who was running a coffee shop in their Bed-Stuy neighborhood, they half joked about starting some sort of restaurant together.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cI didn\u2019t have any experience in hospitality\u2014so who else would work with me, other than a friend?\u201d Khan recalls with a laugh. \u201cWe decided to go for it.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n

Realizing that no eatery in the vicinity was open all day, Khan wanted theirs to serve breakfast, lunch, and dinner.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

There also weren\u2019t many Indian restaurants offering something between basic takeout and more upscale dining.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cIt felt like a market gap,\u201d she says.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The plan to make the establishment a casual Indian caf\u00e9 and wine bar came about as the menu began to take shape\u2014and around that time, Khan responded to the Times\u2019<\/em>s request for a \u201cbudding restaurateur\u201d it could profile.<\/p>\n<\/div>

\"a
A selfie on Khan’s first day inside the space.<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n

The reporting process entailed regular visits from the writer and photographer, documenting every step of Cheeni\u2019s development\u2014including choosing its location, in the first-floor commercial space of a building that had just been built.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cWe were excited about this being new construction, since it felt like there wouldn\u2019t be as many problems\u2014but new construction does not mean no problems,\u201d says Khan, who dealt with issues like installing plumbing and a kitchen exhaust system.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n

I didn\u2019t have any experience in hospitality\u2014so who else would work with me, other than a friend?<\/p>\n<\/blockquote>\n\n\n\n

Khan\u2019s boyfriend and her business partner\u2019s husband did most of the painting and built the tables, bar, and interior walls; much of the d\u00e9cor and art was sourced from vintage shops.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The cushions for the bench seats were upholstered with fabric from Khan\u2019s mother\u2019s old saris, and the partners made several visits to Khan\u2019s parents in Pennsylvania to learn family recipes.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"diners
The eatery on a busy afternoon.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Khan also credits some fellow alums with helping get Cheeni off the ground.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Sister Alisha Khan \u201916 aided with d\u00e9cor; Jessica Lopez \u201912, volunteered as a server for the first few weeks; Kim Murphy \u201912 offered PR and planning strategy; and Ishaan Berry \u201912, BS \u201913, helped refine the cuisine and suggested the name, which means \u201csugar\u201d in Bengali and Hindi.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Cheeni\u2019s most popular menu items include vada pav<\/em> (a fried, spicy potato patty on a bun), phuchka<\/em> (spicy potatoes in a crisp semolina shell), and the kati<\/em> roll crunchwrap (ground tandoori chicken and veggies with cheese and a special sauce).<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Friend Ishaan Berry \u201912, BS \u201913, suggested the eatery’s name, which means \u201csugar\u201d in Bengali and Hindi.<\/p><\/blockquote><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Khan has recently introduced some regular events, including a monthly multicourse dinner with wine pairings, South Asian-themed trivia contests, and \u201cdrink and dance\u201d nights with guest DJs.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The Times<\/em> article certainly boosted the restaurant\u2019s traffic (as well as its Instagram followers<\/a>), Khan says\u2014though it\u2019s difficult to quantify how much.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cWe definitely have regulars who are just folks in the neighborhood,\u201d she says. \u201cA lot of them said, \u2018Oh, we read the New York Times<\/em> article\u2014but we were coming anyway.\u2019\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Top: Khan at Cheeni (Joe Wilensky \/ Cornell University). Food photography by Eivind Sundgot Oskarson; all other images provided, unless otherwise indicated.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Published March 3, 2026<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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