{"id":44639,"date":"2024-12-04T11:33:19","date_gmt":"2024-12-04T16:33:19","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/alumni.cornell.edu\/cornellians\/?p=44639"},"modified":"2024-12-04T11:40:49","modified_gmt":"2024-12-04T16:40:49","slug":"button-asheville","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/alumni.cornell.edu\/cornellians\/button-asheville\/","title":{"rendered":"In Asheville, Chef Katie Button \u201905 Serves Up Hope After Helene"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

Her popular restaurant reopened just weeks after devastating floods in the region\u2014and now, she\u2019s helping her community rebuild<\/p>\n\n\n\n

“Bear Hugs” celebrates heartwarming stories of Cornellians on the Hill and around the world. Have an idea? Email us at cornellians@cornell.edu<\/a>!<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

By Beth Saulnier<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n

How do you run a restaurant kitchen without potable water? That was the challenge\u2014one among many\u2014that Katie Button \u201905<\/a> faced in fall 2024. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

The Engineering alum is a James Beard-nominated chef and cookbook author who owns a popular tapas place in downtown Asheville, NC, a picturesque tourist town nestled in the Blue Ridge Mountains.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

As many Americans saw in horrifying images and video in the national media in late September, Asheville and its environs suffered devastating damage from Hurricane Helene.<\/p>\n<\/div>

\"Katie<\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n

\u201cThe storm turned every creek into a massive, raging river that ripped out everything in its path\u2014and then the rivers turned into what felt like tsunami-level explosions of water that rose over 24 feet and took out buildings, trees, and homes,\u201d Button recalls. \u201cIt was just unfathomable.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

And as though that weren\u2019t enough damage: the flooding disabled the municipal water system. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

While service was restored fairly quickly, the water wasn\u2019t safe to drink\u2014a situation that would stretch into mid-November.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"The
Parts of Asheville suffered devastating flood damage.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
<\/div>\n\n\n\n

Already a leader in Asheville\u2019s vibrant dining scene, Button has since become a resonant voice in the community\u2019s recovery efforts.\u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Just days after the hurricane, her restaurant, C\u00farate<\/a>, began supplying free meals to local residents\u2014part of a relief effort by World Central Kitchen<\/a> (WCK), the nonprofit founded by one of Button\u2019s mentors, celebrity chef Jos\u00e9 Andr\u00e9s.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cIt\u2019s an incredible program; it\u2019s created so smartly,\u201d says Button, whom the state’s governor-elect has named to his advisory committee on rebuilding Western North Carolina.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cWhen a disaster happens, they can just activate. There\u2019s no red tape, no government approval, no decision-making. The storm hit on Friday\u2014and on Saturday, they were already moving people into our area and trying to connect with us.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n

\u00a0The rivers turned into what felt like tsunami-level explosions of water that rose over 24 feet and took out buildings, trees, and homes.<\/p>\n<\/blockquote>\n\n\n\n

The nonprofit\u2019s model is to hire local restaurants to provide meals in the midst of disasters and even wars\u2014not only feeding people in need, but providing an essential revenue stream to establishments that might otherwise have to lay off staff.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Using food donated from other local eateries as well as supplies from WCK, C\u00farate made some 27,000 meals\u2014from breakfast sandwiches to chili, pasta, stew, and more.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Making
Staff prepare meals for WCK in the C\u00farate kitchen.<\/figcaption><\/figure>
\n

<\/p>\n\n\n\n

<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The restaurant cooked and washed dishes using tanks of potable water that had been trucked in\u2014then repurposed the dirty water to flush toilets.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cIn the beginning, we only had one open highway in and out of Asheville,\u201d Button recalls. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cThey were helicoptering meals to families and communities whose road access had been wiped away. These were people who had no power, no water, and no way of getting their own food.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

On October 25, 2023, Button had cooked a state dinner at the White House to celebrate a visit by the prime minister of Australia.<\/p>\n<\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n

<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Exactly a year later, First Lady Jill Biden gave her a hug during a trip to Asheville to view the hurricane damage and the relief efforts by WCK and others.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cI watched as the food gave people hope, and, even amid the devastation, they had a reason to feel a little less alone,\u201d Biden said later, \u201cto know that their community was there for them because they had a meal made with love.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n

They were helicoptering meals to families and communities whose road access had been wiped away.<\/p>\n<\/blockquote>\n\n\n\n

A chemical and biomolecular engineering major on the Hill, Button earned a master\u2019s degree in biomedical engineering from a university in Paris.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

She was about to start a doctoral program at the National Institutes of Health when she realized the career path she\u2019d long been on wasn\u2019t making her happy.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

With a love of food dating back to when she\u2019d helped with her mom\u2019s catering business growing up, Button dipped a toe into the Washington, DC, restaurant scene\u2014and wound up as a server at one of Andr\u00e9s\u2019s restaurants.<\/p>\n\n\n

\n
\"Katie
A hug from visiting First Lady Jill Biden.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n

After spending time living in Spain, Button eventually gained experience in fine-dining kitchens in New York and L.A.; she settled in Asheville in 2010 and opened C\u00farate (whose name translates as \u201ccure yourself\u201d) the following year.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

In 2016, Button co-authored a cookbook<\/a> of the same name, comprising 125 recipes for\u2014in the words of the subtitle\u2014\u201cauthentic Spanish food from an American kitchen.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n

I watched as the food gave people hope, and, even amid the devastation, they had a reason to feel a little less alone.<\/p>\nFirst Lady Jill Biden<\/strong><\/cite><\/blockquote>\n\n\n\n

A few weeks after Helene struck, C\u00farate reopened for limited dinner service.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cPeople need restaurants,\u201d Button observes. \u201cThey need spaces to gather and have fun, to laugh and enjoy and connect with their community and neighbors. That was really, really beautiful to see.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"The
A typically bustling night at C\u00farate, before the storm.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
<\/div>\n\n\n\n

But as Asheville works to reconnect and rebuild, it faces dual challenges: one logistical, the other economic.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

As Button notes, October is traditionally Asheville\u2019s strongest month for tourism\u2014as visitors descend on the region to hike, shop, dine, and view the autumnal foliage.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

With its popular River Arts District largely destroyed by flooding and no potable water flowing through pipes until mid-November, fall 2024 was a tourism disaster.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n

People need restaurants. They need spaces to gather and have fun, to laugh and enjoy and connect with their community and neighbors.<\/p>\n<\/blockquote>\n\n\n\n

Many in the service industry have had trouble paying their rent; in late November, the Washington Post<\/em> did a feature<\/a> on the community\u2019s eviction crisis.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

C\u00farate, which had hosted numerous fundraisers over the years, found itself the beneficiary of a GoFundMe campaign<\/a>. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

(The effort also supported workers at Button\u2019s Spanish market and bakery, La Bodega by C\u00farate, which has yet to reopen.)<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"The<\/figure>
\n

And Button, who has cooked for world leaders, has found herself in an unexpected position: navigating a labyrinth of insurance denials.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

As she explains: while she and others in the Asheville hospitality industry expected their business interruption policies to cover their monetary losses\u2014and allow them to keep workers on the payroll\u2014it has proved an uphill battle.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cMy next big fight is, how do we get businesses the funding they need to survive?\u201d she says. \u201cI\u2019m talking to attorneys and trying to figure out what information we need to supply, so the insurance companies can\u2019t get out of paying by pinning it on some technical detail.\u201d<\/p>\n<\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n

<\/p>\n\n\n\n

<\/p>\n\n\n\n

For Button, it\u2019s a wrenching flashback to the financial crisis that struck the hospitality sector during the COVID pandemic\u2014and it\u2019s spurring her to advocate for national regulation on how such policies are written.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cA lot of people move to Asheville because they want this wonderful balance of culture and nature\u2014and then they have to figure out what they\u2019re going to do in order to be able to live here,\u201d Button observes.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cIt\u2019s a community of makers\u2014small businesses, entrepreneurs, and creatives, whether it\u2019s craft beer, honey, cheese, a tiny farm, charcuterie, pottery, art, or music. When you look at the population size and at all that Asheville has to offer, it doesn\u2019t add up\u2014because it\u2019s a bunch of passionate, driven people who live here by creating what they love.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

(All images provided.)<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Published December 4, 2024<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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