{"id":3744,"date":"2021-11-03T06:00:00","date_gmt":"2021-11-03T10:00:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/alumni.cornell.edu\/cornellians\/?p=3744"},"modified":"2022-04-06T14:58:15","modified_gmt":"2022-04-06T19:58:15","slug":"anabels-grocery","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/alumni.cornell.edu\/cornellians\/anabels-grocery\/","title":{"rendered":"Student-Run Grocery Store Offers Fresh Food at Affordable Prices"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

Featuring many items from Ithaca-area producers, the market in Anabel Taylor Hall has both a social mission and a pedagogical aim<\/p>\n\n\n\n

By Beth Saulnier<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Grad student Ludovico Cestarollo hails from the north of Italy, and he\u2019s happy to admit that he hews to a certain culinary stereotype: like many of his countrymen, he\u2019s a passionate home cook who savors simple but delicious meals made from fresh, locally sourced ingredients.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

And when Cestarollo\u2014a third-year PhD student in materials science\u2014goes shopping, he doesn\u2019t have to wander far from the Engineering Quad. He\u2019s a regular customer at Anabel\u2019s Grocery<\/a>, a student-run market housed in nearby Anabel Taylor Hall. \u201cIt’s awesome,\u201d he says. \u201cThe students who work there are very nice, and I always find what I need. And knowing that a lot of the food is from Cornell or places nearby makes me feel good.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"The
The store is housed in Anabel Taylor Hall, also home to Cornell United Religious Work. (Photo by Jason Koski \/ Cornell University)<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>
\n

Overseen by the Center for Transformative Action (CTA)<\/a>\u2014a nonprofit affiliated with the University that works for positive social change\u2014Anabel\u2019s is open three afternoons a week this semester; while its focus is on serving undergrads and grad students, all members of the Cornell community are welcome. <\/p>\n<\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n

A subsidy fund, approved by the Student Assembly when the project was green-lit by the University in 2015, allows many items to be sold below cost. \u201cIt has a homey atmosphere and the prices are reasonable, so it’s easy to get produce without killing my bank account,\u201d says another frequent customer, science and technology studies major Lorlei Boyd \u201923. \u201cThe seasonality that\u2019s reflected in the produce is one of the biggest attractions. It feels very thematic to Cornell to be in tune to what\u2019s going on around us.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

A focus on fresh local, food<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n

On a Thursday afternoon this fall, Anabel\u2019s is hopping: two students serve as cashiers while shoppers mill about the small store, a former library space on the first floor of Anabel Taylor.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

While most U.S. grocery stores put perishables around the periphery and shelf-stable goods in the center, Anabel\u2019s flips that equation: dominating the room is a display featuring apples from Cornell Orchards<\/a> and a variety of other produce, much of it\u2014including the eggplant, peppers, and squash\u2014grown at the student-run Dilmun Hill Farm<\/a>. The wares mainly reflect the bounty of Upstate New York in fall, but there are also offerings (like lemons and bananas) sourced from farther-flung suppliers.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Two
The apples and basil are grown on campus. (Photo by Jason Koski \/ Cornell University)<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>
\n

Against the walls, in glass-front freezers and refrigerators, are products from local purveyors including cheese, yogurt, beef, and tofu. The store\u2019s crusty boules come from an artisanal bakery that routinely sells out at the Ithaca Farmers Market (but here, it\u2019s offered at roughly half the price). The basil was grown by the Cornell Hydroponics Club; the maple syrup was tapped from Big Red trees. <\/p>\n<\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n

\u201cTraditionally, when you\u2019re working for a brand or retailer, the focus is on the bottom line,\u201d observes Amanda Hartman \u201922, a policy analysis and management major who\u2019s in charge of PR and marketing for the store. \u201cAt Anabel’s, we\u2019re a nonprofit. So we can focus on, \u2018How can we provide the best possible food for the Cornell community? How can we encourage people to eat better?\u2019 We\u2019re not trying to make money; we\u2019re here to give back.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Aiming to do good<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Anabel\u2019s missions also include supporting antiracism efforts: for instance, proceeds from the sale of the Dilmun Hill produce and Hydroponics Club greens go to a grant fund administered by Cornell Students for Black Lives. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Another key aim is to alleviate food insecurity. As the University\u2019s biannual Cornell Undergraduate Experience Survey<\/a> found in 2019 (the most recent year for which results are available), a small but significant number of students report \u201coccasionally,\u201d \u201coften,\u201d or \u201cvery often\u201d not eating as much as they feel they need; their reasons include financial constraints and a lack of transportation to off-campus grocery stores.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

One of our taglines is \u2018Fresh, nutritious, affordable food for all.\u2019 While we\u2019re aiming to combat food insecurity, we also want everyone to feel welcome.<\/p>Nat Rosier \u201922<\/strong><\/cite><\/blockquote>\n\n\n\n

\u201cOne of our taglines is \u2018Fresh, nutritious, affordable food for all,\u2019\u201d says Nat Rosier \u201922, an ILR student who serves as Anabel\u2019s \u201cpeople lead\u201d (essentially, the head of human resources). \u201cWhile we\u2019re aiming to combat food insecurity, we also want everyone to feel welcome. Regardless of background, race, ethnicity, or anything else, we want you to come in and feel excited to shop.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Anabel\u2019s has a pedagogical angle, too: to work in the store, students have to be enrolled (or have previously taken) a course in applied economics and management titled AEM 3385: Social Entrepreneurship Practicum. Taught by Anke Wessels, the longtime executive director of CTA, the course explores inequities in the food system\u2014and how enterprises like Anabel\u2019s can help combat them.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Anke
Anke Wessels (right) teaching AEM 3385. (Photo by Jason Koski \/ Cornell University)<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
<\/div>\n\n\n\n

While the three-credit class (TA\u2019ed by Rosier this fall) takes a deep dive into such issues as how structural racism impacts the food system, Anabel\u2019s offers hands-on experience in running a small-scale grocery store. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cThey learn practical skills\u2014how to take inventory and how that informs purchasing; how to develop a good marketing campaign; how to staff and cope with everybody\u2019s schedules; how to work with a team,\u201d says Wessels, also a visiting lecturer in the Dyson School. \u201cWe have a big conversation about, \u2018How do you create a culture where people can feel like they belong, and where they can be vulnerable and honest, so we can build trusting relationships and support each other?\u2019\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Tips for novice cooks<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n

On top of its other goals, Anabel\u2019s aims to be a venue for food education and community building: it hosts free dinners (also a way to use up unsold produce) as well as online cook-alongs. And it posts recipes in the store\u2014offerings have included overnight oats and pattypan squash pizza\u2014that shoppers can photograph. \u201cI think a lot of college students see zucchini and they’re like, \u2018What do I do?\u2019\u2014they’re intimidated,\u201d Hartman says. \u201cSo we\u2019ll suggest things they can make.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Since its initial launch in 2017<\/a>, Anabel\u2019s has experienced some ups and downs, and it closed for part of 2019 to rethink its organizational structure. And like retailers everywhere, it has coped with pandemic-related disruptions. It was shuttered along with the rest of campus in March 2020 before reopening for online ordering (with in-person pickup) nearly a year later.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"bulk
Bulk bins allow shoppers to choose their own quantities. (Photo by Jason Koski \/ Cornell University)<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n

While this fall has marked a welcome return to in-store shopping, it has also meant struggling with COVID-era supply-chain issues. In charge of purchasing is Alyssa Gartenberg, a master\u2019s student in natural resources. She has overseen the addition of popular items like Tony\u2019s chocolate bars (a brand known for ethically sourcing its cocoa) and\u2014in response to customer demand for grab-and-go foods\u2014a line of frozen, microwavable burritos made from all-natural ingredients.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cIt has been interesting to see the immediate input and output,\u201d Gartenberg says. \u201cIf I forget to order something or I miss a deadline, it has real repercussions: we don\u2019t have that item in the store. Anabel\u2019s really does operate as a living, changing learning lab.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Top image: Shopping for groceries at Anabel’s. (Photo by Jason Koski \/ Cornell University)<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Published November 3, 2021<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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