{"id":25043,"date":"2023-08-18T16:08:53","date_gmt":"2023-08-18T20:08:53","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/alumni.cornell.edu\/cornellians\/?p=25043"},"modified":"2023-08-18T16:25:39","modified_gmt":"2023-08-18T20:25:39","slug":"dye-garden","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/alumni.cornell.edu\/cornellians\/dye-garden\/","title":{"rendered":"In the Hill\u2019s Natural Dye Garden, A Rainbow of Color Is in Bloom"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

Cultivated by Human Ecology, the small-but-vivid plot helps students and faculty explore plant-based pigments<\/p>\n\n\n\n

By Lindsay Lennon<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

On a late summer stroll around the Hill, you may happen upon a small, vibrantly colored garden. Tucked away in a courtyard between the Human Ecology Building and Martha Van Rensselaer Hall, it\u2019s resplendent with blooms including purple dahlias, towering golden sunflowers, and bands of fiery red, orange, and yellow marigolds. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

This modest-but-mighty plot is the Cornell Natural Dye Garden<\/a>: a living classroom and harvestable resource of organic colors used by students in textile and fiber science.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Planted in spring 2015, the garden was conceived by Denise Green \u201907<\/a>, an associate professor of human centered design. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n
\"A<\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"A<\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"A<\/figure>\n
Outfits that Green created from naturally dyed fabrics. (Simon Wheeler<\/em>)<\/sup><\/sub><\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
<\/div>\n\n\n\n

She was inspired to create it after teaching Color and Surface Design of Textiles, a course focused on dyes typically used by the textile industry, which has long been dominated by synthetics.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cOur students need to learn that,\u201d notes Green. \u201cBut I thought: what about also looking to the past, to learn about potentially more sustainable approaches?\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Green went all in on the subject, including establishing the garden, which started in a planter hanging off a balcony on Human Ecology\u2019s terrace. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"A
The full-grown sunflowers dwarf the garden\u2019s founder. (Provided)<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
<\/div>\n\n\n\n

Thanks to a crowdfunding campaign\u2014and numerous plants provided by the Cornell Botanic Gardens<\/a>\u2014the plot took root in its current home in 2016.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

From the beginning, students have worked in the garden alongside Green\u2014from planting in late spring to harvesting throughout the summer and fall and then processing the plants to tap their enchanting hues. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

When they started experimenting, Green says, she and her students were struck not only by the richness of the colors, but their whimsical unpredictability.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

<\/div>\n\n\n\n
\n
\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"\"<\/figure>\n
Flowers are pounded and steamed into fabric to form an eco print.<\/sup><\/sub> (Provided)<\/sup><\/sub><\/em><\/strong> <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

\u201cIt\u2019s kind of like doing tie-dye\u2014you know what you might <\/em>get, but it can surprise you, and magical things can happen,\u201d Green says. \u201cThe inconsistencies can be really beautiful, and there are these unexpected, serendipitous moments.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

One of Green\u2019s former students has even launched a business built around natural dyeing techniques. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Ithaca native Blossom Schmitt \u201917 spent a decade as a local flower farmer before enrolling at CALS\u2019 School of Integrative Plant Science to study sustainable agriculture.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

She took Green\u2019s fiber science studio class, where she relished the playfully creative nature of organic dyeing. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"A
A cape dyed with indigo, turmeric, and madder makes a dramatic statement. (Simon Wheeler)<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>
\n

\u201cIt opened up my world,\u201d says Schmitt. \u201cIt was this explosion of everything I love about science, and everything I love about being creative. It used both sides of my brain.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

After graduation, Schmitt moved to Martha\u2019s Vineyard, where she runs Florawear<\/a>, a boutique apparel company offering naturally dyed items. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

She started by upcycling white garments from thrift stores, and eventually began sourcing her own fabrics, creating high-end pieces like dresses, nightgowns, and yoga gear. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

As Green explains: not all materials readily lend themselves to natural dyes, whose utility is highly dependent on the textile to which they\u2019re applied.<\/p>\n<\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n

<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Fibers like silk and wool are a natural dyer\u2019s dream; cotton makes a great canvas, but has issues with long-term colorfastness.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

To that end, Green and colleagues are currently researching the longevity of naturally dyed items after they\u2019ve been laundered and exposed to light dozens or hundreds of times.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

And given the finnicky Northeast climate\u2014and, of course, wildlife\u2014cultivating the dye garden is an ongoing lesson in trial-and-error.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n

You know what you might <\/em>get, but it can surprise you, and magical things can happen.<\/p>\nProf. Denise Green \u201907<\/strong><\/cite><\/blockquote>\n\n\n\n

Some plants deliver reliably\u2014like Hopi Dye sunflowers, reaching upwards of 12 feet in height and harvested for their purplish-black seeds, and marigolds, which flourish right up to autumn\u2019s first frost. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

On the other end of the hardiness spectrum, there\u2019s only one breed of indigo plant\u2014which is widely utilized as a dye source across the apparel industry\u2014that stands a chance in the Ithaca region; Green has grown it with varying degrees of success.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

But she notes that beyond nurturing specific varieties, the garden project has another aim: to get people to think twice about plants that otherwise might be written off as weeds. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

<\/div>\n\n\n\n
<\/div>
<\/div><\/div>
\"A
A courtyard garden with a purpose. (Sreang Hok \/ Cornell University)<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>
\"A
Basil creates a purplish-gray dye. (Sreang Hok \/ Cornell University)<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>
\"Mannequins
The 2022 “Articles of Displacement” exhibition. (Simon Wheeler)<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>
\"A
A diva dahlia. (Sreang Hok \/ Cornell University)<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>
\"Dried
The 2022 show included a display of plants used in dyes. (Simon Wheeler)<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>
\"Pink
Pink cosmos. (Sreang Hok \/ Cornell University)<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>
<\/div><\/section>\n\n\n\n

For instance, celandine poppy\u2014widely considered a weed in Northeastern home gardens\u2014has orangey yellow roots with natural dye properties. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

A few years ago, then-graduate student Kelsie Doty, PhD \u201920\u2014now a fashion and textiles professor at Kansas State University\u2014spearheaded a partnership with Cornell Dining to salvage food waste like onion skins, avocado pits, and coffee grounds that can be used in textile coloration and dyeing.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Says Green: \u201cThere are so many sources of dye we literally just throw away.\u201d <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Top: An array of the garden\u2019s marigolds (Sreang Hok \/ Cornell University).<\/em> <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Published August 18, 2023<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Cultivated by Human Ecology, the small-but-vivid plot helps students and faculty explore plant-based pigments<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":84,"featured_media":25059,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"alumni_hub_syml_posts":[21852,12526,24671],"footnotes":""},"categories":[227],"tags":[],"cornell_year_post":[],"post_folder":[],"class_list":["post-25043","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-campus-beyond"],"yoast_head":"\nIn the Hill\u2019s Natural Dye Garden, A Rainbow of Color Is in Bloom - Cornellians | Cornell University<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Cultivated by Human Ecology, the small-but-vivid plot helps students and faculty explore plant-based pigments\" \/>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/alumni.cornell.edu\/cornellians\/dye-garden\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"In the Hill\u2019s Natural Dye Garden, A Rainbow of Color Is in Bloom - 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