{"id":18065,"date":"2023-02-28T15:17:03","date_gmt":"2023-02-28T20:17:03","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/alumni.cornell.edu\/cornellians\/?p=18065"},"modified":"2023-02-28T15:17:04","modified_gmt":"2023-02-28T20:17:04","slug":"maple-program","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/alumni.cornell.edu\/cornellians\/maple-program\/","title":{"rendered":"Cornell Maple Program Sees Acres of Untapped Opportunity"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

With its two research forests and state-of-the-art sugar houses, the program aims to support producers across New York State<\/p>\n\n\n\n

By Lindsay Lennon<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Did you know New York is more than 60% forested? And within those woods, there are more than 300 million untapped <\/strong>maple trees\u2014more than in any other state in the country, even maple-obsessed Vermont?<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The folks at the Cornell Maple Program<\/a> are well aware of those facts. That\u2019s why, in addition to running two research forests and making their own products, they\u2019ve been bringing their show on the road to spread the knowledge\u2014and potential economic gain\u2014of this sweet and sustainable resource.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The program is rooted in Cornell\u2019s identity as a land-grant institution. Part of its mission, says co-director Aaron Wightman \u201997, is to help improve the lives of New Yorkers by supporting maple producers across the state \u201cwith everything involved with sugar making, from the woods all the way to the marketplace.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Four
The Cornell Store sells the Big Red\u2019s own syrup. (Provided<\/em>)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
<\/div>\n\n\n\n

In the 19th and early 20th centuries, U.S. maple production was booming. Though it was displaced by other sweeteners\u2014like those derived from beets, sugarcane, and corn\u2014it has been regaining traction among discerning consumers. In New York alone, production has more than quadrupled in the last 15 years.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cPeople are rediscovering maple syrup as a natural sweetener that\u2019s locally and sustainably produced,\u201d says Wightman amid the buzzing machinery in the Arnot Research Forest sugar house, about 17 miles from the Hill in the town of Van Etten. \u201cThat represents a big economic opportunity for rural Upstate New York.\u201d <\/p>\n\n\n\n

<\/div>\n\n\n\n

The Arnot Forest is home to 50-plus miles of vacuum tubing, running from about 7,000 trees directly into the recently renovated sugar house. There, a modern reverse osmosis system concentrates the sap before it heads to evaporators to be boiled into syrup.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n

Up to 16,000 gallons of sap\u2014which yields roughly 400 gallons of syrup\u2014are processed daily at Arnot during the January-through-April production season. The operation is run by three people, but it would require far more if not for the efficient technology that completes about 80% of the work. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Where tubing supplants the once ubiquitous task of collecting sap in buckets, the labor now lies in tapping trees and maintaining and repairing the collection system. \u201cInstead of grandpa in his flannels in the sugar house, sitting over the evaporator, we have commercial food processing facilities,\u201d says Wightman. \u201cIt\u2019s not as quaint as it once was.\u201d<\/p>\n<\/div>

\"A
A maple in autumn at Cornell’s Uihlein Forest. (Adam Wild<\/em>)<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n

<\/p>\n\n\n\n

<\/div>\n\n\n\n

<\/p>\n\n\n\n

At the program\u2019s 350-acre Uihlein Maple Research Forest in Lake Placid, program co-director Adam Wild supervises a somewhat cozier operation. The facility\u2019s 1965 wooden sugar house, with its mountain lodge aesthetic, has \u201ca little more of the Adirondack rustic charm,\u201d says Wild.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Nonetheless, the Uihlein Forest employs the same contemporary technology as Arnot for its 7,000 sugar maple and birch taps. Situated in the Adirondack High Peaks tourism hub, its staff regularly engage with visitors, and self-guided tours were recently introduced.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Only three maple research forests exist in the U.S.; Arnot and Uihlein are two of them (the third is managed by the University of Vermont). The program\u2019s own syrup is sold at those sites and via the Cornell Store<\/a>; through a partnership with the popular Founding Farmers<\/a> restaurants in the Washington, D.C., area, it supplies syrup to the chain\u2019s farm-to-table eateries. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

<\/div>
<\/div><\/div>
\"A
Boiling sap in the Arnot Forest. <\/figcaption><\/figure>
\"Plastic
Tubing that transports sap to the sugar house. <\/figcaption><\/figure>
\"A
Arnot director Peter Smallidge checks sugar levels on his sap research plots. <\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>
<\/div><\/section>\n\n\n\n

But the forests Wightman and Wild oversee represent just a fraction of the opportunity for maple production across the Empire State.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cEven though there is a lot of untapped potential, it has been growing,\u201d says Wild. In fact, he adds, \u201cSome could argue that New York is seeing <\/strong>some of the most growth throughout the maple industry <\/strong>right now.\u201d <\/p>\n\n\n\n

That\u2019s why a core part of the program\u2019s mission is to connect with maple producers, helping them navigate the business- and technology-related challenges of modernizing or expanding their operations.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n

Instead of grandpa in his flannels in the sugar house, sitting over the evaporator, we have commercial food processing facilities.<\/p>\nAaron Wightman \u201997<\/strong>, Maple Program co-director<\/cite><\/blockquote>\n\n\n\n

The program has hosted about 80 workshops for more than 2,000 people across the state. Its website offers a plethora of resources, from an intro class to the Sweet Talk: All Things Maple<\/em><\/a> podcast, as well as a steady stream of research findings on syrup production and sugar bush (maple forest) management. There\u2019s also a library of sweet and savory recipes, from maple teriyaki pork chops to boozy maple ros\u00e9 popsicles.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Catherine Belisle, a product development food scientist based at the Arnot Forest, <\/strong>spends most of her days formulating innovative applications for maple across the food and beverage industry, often in tandem with student researchers. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

She shares her recipes and guidelines with producers to help expand their markets beyond syrup and into what\u2019s known as \u201cmaple value added\u201d products, like sports drinks, marshmallows, kombucha, and chocolate. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

<\/div>\n\n\n\n
\"A
An early season boil at Uihlein\u2019s sugar house. (Adam Wild<\/em>)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
<\/div>\n\n\n\n

Belisle\u2019s current focus is creating food and beverages that use maple as the only sweetener. She\u2019ll be testing a maple sap beverage\u2014similar to coconut water\u2014with Ithaca consumers this year. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Her personal favorite creation as of late: Mappleau, <\/strong>a sweet dessert liqueur with caramel and woody barrel oak notes, that she developed with then-student researcher Christian Mercado, MFS \u201921. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Wightman\u2019s family has produced maple in rural Allegany County for generations. Compared to the large forests he and Wild tend for Cornell, his little sugar bush is a drop in a sap bucket (which many smaller producers still use, in addition to tubing). It\u2019s a glimpse of what\u2019s possible, he says, for hundreds of other families like his.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cMaking maple syrup is harder than it used to be\u2014it\u2019s more industrial, in some ways\u2014but it\u2019s still the dream job,\u201d says Wightman, who first visited Arnot as an undergrad and is now pursuing a PhD in natural resources at Cornell. \u201cIt\u2019s been exciting to come full circle, take over this facility, and grow it into something that\u2019s beneficial to New York.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

He squints a bit, then smiles widely. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cI\u2019m probably not articulating it well,\u201d he says. \u201cI was in the sugar house \u2019til almost 2 a.m.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Top: Wightman inspects tubing atop the Arnot sugar house in 2018, before a recent renovation. (All images by Jason Koski \/ Cornell University unless otherwise indicated.)<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Published February 28, 2023<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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